The Oasis of Tranquility – Ritigala…

Waterfalls have played a major part in my life in 2014. I’ve been going all over the up country searching for pristine white beauties with many of my friends and the hunting was a runaway success. As the rainy season shifted from South-West to North-East, that had been long overdue, I too decided to shift my focus from hill country to somewhere else. This was not because I’d lost interest in my beloved waterfalls, but just wanted to have a change of scene. However very little did I know even though I wanted a change of scene from hill country, I’d end up yet another hilly place.

Staying at home, doing nothing in my weekend can depress me to no end. It’ll further increase when the darn weekend falls on a weekday. There’s a limit that I can sleep so when I knew I was in for yet another useless two days of weekend, I wanted to scream my head off. Amid all the confusion I browsed Lakdasun looking for somewhere to go and I hit the jackpot after a few tries. Ritigala has always been a mystery to me as much as to anyone else. So the need to go see was like a sleeping lion in me, or rather a semi-active volcano, bubbling inside trying to burst the outer crust.

Having failed to find a mate for this hastily arranged journey, I decided to do another solo stunt. Thinking back, I’ve only done 2 solo stunts before out of all the journeys. So this came as the third and I hope it’ll be the last as travelling alone is such a bore. There’s no one to talk to and make plans, it can also be a pain having to satisfy the curious people who are only interested in getting information from me, not giving the information to me.

So thankfully I got a very useful contact number from Ashan and called Dayarathna (Daya for his close friends) who was very cheerful and helpful. However, he said that the rains have started their sing-song and for me to be ready. Well, what on earth was there to be ready other than either call the whole thing off or go get soaked to the bones? I went home on the 18^th evening, still undecided whether to go ahead or not. Around 8pm, I was beginning to sweat profusely and had begun to feel feverish too. These symptoms had only one cure, to cut lose and go somewhere.

Day 01

Having called Daya, I got ready to go and slept fitfully till 4am. Getting up, I saw plenty of mist hanging around in the air and on tree tops. I washed my face quickly to make sure that I wasn’t dreaming or I wasn’t in Nuwara Eliya. This was the sign of the Winter had arrived and the chill sent shivers down my spine. I got ready and reached the Fort Station around 5.15am, way too early for the 6.05am train. It was the Udaya Devi Train that runs to Batticaloa. Even though, Podi Menike has been my favorite train to date, not so after the name used on those S-12 Chinese power sets, Udaya Devi took a very good impression on me immediately. Powered by M8 engine, a clone of former Canadian Engine, built in India she had those newly acquired blue and white stripped wagons giving it a matching color combination of the dark blue engine.

During my wait amid less crowded Fort Station unlike on weekends, there was the newly introduced AC Express train to Jaffna that leaves Fort at 5.50am. Finally Udaya Devi reached the number 4 platform in her majestic style and waited for her passengers to get on board. The 2^nd class was not at all crowded giving a wider array of seats. It actually made most people go haywire as they simply couldn’t make up their minds about where to sit. They kept hopping from one to the other and then realizing the former was better than the current one, and then going and sitting somewhere else.

It was so fun to watch this drama unfolding and the sun had a tough time penetrating the thick layer of clouds. The seats however were too straight for my liking; it makes you sit upright right throughout the journey with no option to angle it back even slightly. This is the only thing I didn’t like about the train and it was a big mistake by the designers. At the chime of 6.05am, she pulled out of the station sending a jolt through my bones.

Away she went passing the smoky and stinking Colombo suburbs, adding more poisonous black smoke to already over smoked city sky. Reaching the wetlands and swamps in around Ragama and then towards Gampaha in the wee hours was a treat for the eye and the mind. The mist had come in full force the previous night covering the lush green marshlands and paddy fields with her white cloth. I felt so cold when the train went cutting through the morning mist that had hung across the railway line. This was a journey to treasure. The trees stood in the distance amid paddy fields and wetlands covered in mist giving it a ghostly impression. Something you usually experience in Nuwara Eliya, the pine trees covered in mist. If it wasn’t for the paddy field and stretches of open marshy lands, one could’ve easily mistaken the surrounding to be Nuwara Eliya.

Tour Highlights: 

1. Awkana Buddha Statue
2. Kala Wewa
3. Vijithapura RMV
4. Ritigala Archaeological Remains and Una Kanda
5. Andiyakanda Hermitage

The train journey was nice and smooth and I had the carriage pretty much for myself. What irritated me somewhat was Udaya Devi retouching her make up at Maho Junction. She kept looking at herself this way and that way still not satisfied, finally when she managed to make up her mind about her look, we were late by more than half hour. My plans nearly were shot to hell. From Maho, it’s the thick forest and isolated villages the train runs through. It’s very sad to know this is the most evil track for elephants in SL. Hundreds of jumbos have sacrificed their lives for the Iron Monster between Maho and Batticaloa despite various unsuccessful measures taken by our authorities.

The time table from 5.40am (Click image to enlarge)

@ Maho

Having a bath

Changing the sides

Overseeing the operation

The rainy clouds in the distance

Curious

Awkana Buddha Statue

Finally, after 4.5 hrs of travelling, I was on the platform at Aukana looking left and right feeling completely lost. I reached the main road (Galnewa-Kekirawa) and found a tuk-tuk and headed towards the statue while the laden skies decided to unburden themselves. It was pouring with rain by the time I reached the temple and had no umbrella to go up to the statue. Thankfully, Niroshan, the tuk-tuk driver had a jacket which he lent me. Using that I managed to reach the temple and keeping my cap as a cover for my camera (thanking my wisdom for sticking with point-n-shoot not with mortar-sized SLR), went towards this beautifully carved Buddha Statue.

I was stopped in my tracks, the rain was pouring over my exposed head, the cap was getting soaked leaking water onto the camera but I was frozen at the sight of this majestic creation. The police officer and another fella kept firing questions at me and they all fell on deaf ears as I was too busy admiring this gigantic and sensational rocky statue. This was a master piece created by the best artists at that time. Every nook and corner with carved with such precision and smoothness, I felt awed by simply looking up the serene looking Buddha.

It’s said and believed a drop of rainwater, detaching itself from the tip of the nose of the statue, would drop in perpendicular into the small depression (providing there’s no wind) carved between the big toes of the statue. It shows the sheer skill and accuracy in those days. I felt proud of our ancestors but sadly can’t say the same thing now. When the rain was too much for me to stay closer, I borrowed an umbrella from one of the tourists and went and took some more pics.

They’re planning to build a roof covering the statue in order to protect it from winds, rain and piercing sun. Whether this will pay dividends is yet to be seen. Having worshipped and said my prayers I left donating a small amount to the foundation and got back in the tuk-tuk in search of Vijithapura RMV.

Good bye Udaya Devi

Here I am

Majestic looking Buddha

Closer

The Stupa near the statue

The plaque symbolizing the visit of Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip with then President J. R. Jayawardena back in 1981

Simply unbelievable craftsmanship

Side view

Raining very hard

Can’t believe this is done out of rock

Upper part

And the lower, would be a sight to see bathed in flood lights

Very old

Kala Wewa and Vijithapura RMV

The sky was heavily pregnant with water and looked at me gloomily. I stopped on the bund of this mighty creature pondering of King Dathusena who had built many tanks and canals. Unfortunately, his fate was sealed at the Kala Wewa itself when his son, gone insane killed him by burying him alive on the bund of this tank.

My next stop was Vijithapura RMV, a temple believed to have been built by King Dutugemunu after defeating Elara. Vijithapura is supposed to be the great battlefield where King Dutugemunu re-united the country defeating South Indian invaders. The rains had eased by the time I got off the tuk-tuk and went in, having paid Rs. 400/- for Niroshan for his troubles. The Stupa is something I hadn’t seen anywhere before with a uniquely design structure. I’ll let the pics do the explaining. There were many remains of ancient civilizations.

Out of all the historical remains, the “Kadu Ge Gala” (The rock where the swords were sharpened) is the main highlight. It’s believed this was used to sharpen the swords by King Dutugemunu and his soldiers. The rock itself is showing so much erosion in the middle proving it was very heavily used. Bidding farewell to this historic place I got into a bus and reached Kekirawa in the middle of yet another heavy shower.

Kala Wewa

Water levels increasing

One of the many sluice gates for canals

Isolated

At the temple

Majestic

With the thousands of years old stone pillars

One of the beautiful Stupa’s I’ve seen

The top of it

Famous Rock where the swords were sharpened

Showing heavy use, that sword is not a real one

You know what these are

Some more

Another

The main image house but not open at the time, thanks to treasure hunters

The steps to the Stupa

On the left

And the right

The full package

Towards the top, this looks like a king worshipping but the head is broken

Seeking some warmth

Remains

Foundation of a former complex

Another

Mmm, mouth watering

Scattered across

Fully stone

The official logo of the Department of Irrigation nowadays

Many more across the road too

Keeriyagaswewa, Ritigala

Daya was waiting for at Kekirawa and after a hasty lunch, we wanted to the go see some more archaeological remains in a place called Divulwewa but the intermittent showers made the decision for us. Having abandoned our plans, we reached his house in Keeriyagaswewa, right in front of Ritigala Visitor Centre and settled for the night.

The jumbos usually roam around the area at will but I wasn’t lucky enough to see any. However I took the opportunity to roam about the Ritigala Visitor Centre and take some pics. Then it was time to call it a day and go to sleep. So after a wash and a heavy dinner I was fast asleep the moment my head hit the pillow. It was a very good night with no troubles from jumbos and I slept without a dream till 6am.

Note: Before I get up, just wanna keep you guys in the loop about another blunder by the officials. They had started a project very much similar to Udawalawa Ath Athuru Sewana called “Ritigala Ath Athuru Sewana” and was open to the public. Having spent millions of public money for this, now they’d simply abandoned the whole thing and giving away the remaining baby elephants to places even the wildlife officials have no clue.

So this is yet another blunder by the officials and I guess mainly the politicians. I also received some inside information from someone who likes to remain anonymous that the number of baby elephants that were stolen in the recent past is well over 100. This is very reliable information coming directly from the people who know it for a fact. Just imagine the plight of those poor fellows having no freedom and separated from the warmth of their mothers and care of the families.

Instead they are kept as a symbol of status by those who can pay large sums in either bribes or illegally to those corrupt officials and politicians. Unfortunately many tourists, especially the foreigners, get misled by these boards which are located at Kekirawa Town, Galapitagala Turn off and near the premises too. Someone has written on the board close to the premises with some paint “Wasa Atha” or “Closed” trying in vain to keep the tourists informed about it not functioning anymore.

Buildings of visitor center

The range

Kodi Gala

Rest of the range

Only the boards

Causeway aka Shoe Bridge

Against the dark sky

Huge mushroom

The full package

The old board

Built in 2008

Open to the public

Either side of the entrance

The other

The pathway

Higher up

The summit over the roof

Do this please

Interior

Towards the cafeteria

The prison is around the corner

A big complex

Like walking through a jungle. Reminds of a theme park in Malaysia or Singapore?

The icing in the distant

Can’t get enough of it

Colorful fella

Water dripping off

Some more

Day 02

Nothing beats a good night’s sleep which was exactly I had last night making me feel nice and fresh in the morning. The wildlife kept making various kinda noises throughout adding flavor to the music industry. I had big plans for the day and hurriedly got dressed and was about by 6.30am while the sun was fighting a fierce battle with the clouds. The clouds were not in the mood to give in and instead gathered so thickly covering the tip of Ritigala as if icing on a cake.

With Daya, I went to see the Keeriyagaswewa Tank in the hope of seeing a jumbo but the Nuwara Eliya-esque climate kept them hidden deep in the jungle, probably still snoring loudly. Unfortunately, the renovated tank in 2008, now in a very bad shape as there hasn’t been any maintenance. We saw some foot marks of the elephants and had to be content with that. The Rigitala Range with 7 peaks was covered in mist and were looking absolutely breath-taking in the morning.

It was time to have an early breakfast and Daya got one of his cuisine brothers, Thissa to accompany me to Ritigala. Thissa is a very good fellow with loads of knowledge about Ritigala and its historical value. He claims that he’s visited Ritigala more than 100 times covering most of its area. After talking to him, I came to believe that he knows what he was talking about. So time to go see the Majestic and Tranquil Kingdom of Ritigala.

Daya and Son

Posing shyly

The path towards the Archaeological Site

Keeriyagaswewa Tank

The right plank of mighty Ritigala

One of the peaks

This is the left plank

Very hard to get a clear pic…

Busy early morning despite being so old

Pinkies up in the morning too

Some yellows too

Not edible, unfortunately

Daya’s son keeping an eye out

The last in the herd

He could drive this as good as any

Ritigala Archaeological Remains and Una Kanda

Facts on Ritigala in Pics:

Do check the information given at the Visitor Centre that I took on my lenses below. It helps to check the pics rather and reading them I guess. Then let’s go to the fairy tale bit.

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There’s 2km of muddy road till the archaeological site of Ritigala from the Visitor Centre. This has many pot holes and extremely slippery even after a slight drizzle. Low clearance vehicle such as a car will have a rough journey, so better to avoid going in one. Instead, you can walk this 2km along a nice and shady road or use your jeep, van or 4X4. If none of them suits you, hire Daya’s tuk-tuk from the Visitor Centre which I did.

The sky looked threatening and very dark; the picture became even gloomier inside the forest-covered road. We reached the archaeological site around 8am and obtained the permission to go see them from the officer on site. I felt it was a pity they didn’t charge anything to see them as anything given for free has very little value. Hope they will start charging to enter the site in future.

As soon as we entered the site, there were remains of what looked like a big tank and Thissa duly informed me that it is called “Panda Wewa”. There were these huge rocky slabs (must be about H x W x D = 4’ x 1’ x 0.5’) used as the outer wall making it a set of steps that lead to the tank gradually. I was immediately fascinated by the sheer ingenuity of this structure. These rocky slabs were placed so close to each other and they must’ve used some kinda very special cement mixture to keep them in place and retain the water without any leaks. I even heard that those days, they used bee-honey as well in those special cement mixtures.

Passing this, we kept going uphill along the well-paved 10-12ft wide rocky path. Similar kind of rocky slabs used to border the path wile even wider ones were used along the path placing them closer to each other making a nice path with steps where necessary and resting places too. I was lost for words and was staring at these wonderful creations as if they were talking to me. I was hypnotized by the ingenuity and creativity of our ancestors. Everywhere I looked, there was abundant evidence to the mastery of our former architectural skills.

Thissa gave a running commentary over the ruins telling me of their significance. I was a kid once again listening to a very interesting history lesson from his teacher. One such extraordinarily place was the remains of the ancient hospital. There were many rocky mills, where they used to grind medicine. The rocks looked heavily used over years of grinding and blending many different medicinal leaves, flowers and barks. There were a couple of medicinal boats in which the patients were submerged in medicinal liquids. To the center of the complex there was the place where the seriously injured were treated. A rocky bed was laid with a fascinating drainage system to remove the urine and bowels.

The whole mountain range was self-sufficient in every way. There were medicinal gardens, fruit gardens and tanks along with watch towers and their own hospital. This was a very modern living system created some thousands of years ago in this country that was beyond the wildest dreams of many others at the time.

At the archaeological remains

Some of them kept in front

Mud-walled Office

Here we go

Panda Tank

See how neatly it’s done

Path

Very big

Scattered all around

Shady path but no sun to disturb us

Circling around these obstacles

Going up

Beginning of the mile long rocky stairway

Climbing all the while

Resting places

Just can’t get enough of these

Rounding paths

Goes on

A huge complex

Must’ve been a grand construction in the past

The ancient hospital

Remains

Where they blended the medicine

Medicinal boats

Where the severely injured was treated

Drains

Sandy path

Many more to see

To another level

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Amid the trees

Never ending

Almost 150-200m long this direct stretch

Not explored properly yet

Gigantic trees

To the watch tower

Closer

Here it is

Going up

The solidly built walls

View not clear due to gloominess

This is believed to be the pillow used by the guards to rest. Just imagine having to rest on a rocky pillow this big, the guard must’ve been so big

From the watch tower

Much much more

Higher ground

More resting places

Another of buildings

Looks very well planned

Must be the most artistic commode

Framed

This is a meditating chamber

Time to go see the Bamboo Mountain

Passing all these we went further up. Our target was to reach one of the seven summits of Ritigala called Una Kanda. Others are Andiya Kanda, Awshadha Kanda, Amarapathi Kanda, Na Ulpath Kanda, Palathuru Kanda and Kodi Kanda. Out of these, Kodi Kanda aka Kodi Gala is the highest summit point with a height of 766m.

The forest was so dense and there was no sunlight, though there was very little of it, coming through the thick tree cover. Led by Thissa we started the ascent amid a moderate trail uphill. There were a few snakes that went across the path at intervals sending fear through the ears. However, Thissa was unfazed by any of that and kept climbing. It was tough going and the humidity was unbearable despite it being so cold the previous night and early morning.

Closer to the viewing points, the going became a bit treacherous as the terrain was soaked in rain and all the rocks were as slippery as an eel’s back. Finally, with a lot of going around and hanging dearly for tree branches, we were at the viewing point but the dark umbrella overhead didn’t help the visibility at all. The Kodi Gala, highest point of Ritigala, rather the whole of North Central and Northern Province combined, was to our right covered by the mist. While thick grey clouds were going overhead towards Minneriya, Dambulla and Matale.

The weather held all the time but now the rain was imminent, so without wasting any more time, having done a very quick documentary we started our descent while the rain started hammering the tree cover above us. I panicked big time but thankfully, the rain gods took pity on us as they sent it farther away after a short burst. We made to the office where Daya was waiting patiently for us. It was time to go see the last of the tour highlights, Andiyakanda Hermitage.

Some more mammoth trees

Mushy mushrooms

Artistic

Just look at the path

Now the thick forest

Goes up around these

Colorful

Wasps’ nest

Full of snakes too

Twisting

Towards Habarana, Minneriya and Pollonnaruwa

Kodi Kanda covered in mist

Thissa giving a running commentary

Where we went in the middle

Zoomed

Got back

Daya must be waiting

Majestic and Mysterious Ritigala

Andiyakanda Hermitage

This is located about 2km from the Ritigala Visitor Centre along Keeriyagaswewa-Galapitagala Road. You need to take a similar road to the Archaeological Site for about another 2km which is also not in good condition for a car. The road is among the forest and Daya kept a close watch for jumbos. I was yearning for them to appear but none of them did for my disappointment. Daya’s little son too came with us.

We could see the Andiyakanda in the middle of the mountain range. According to folklore, one old person had been told about a treasure at Andiyakanda and was specifically asked to take only a small amount. However the sheer greediness of the human nature took the better of him and he went inside the cave on the Andiyakanda for more and more treasure. Sounds like Ali Baba and 40 Thieves, doesn’t it? As a punishment for his greediness, once he was inside the cave, one huge rock had fallen barring the entrance trapping him inside.

Listening to all these fairy tales, we reached the hermitage which was so calm and quiet save for the wind rustling the leaves, birds, mainly peacocks, making different tunes and our feet crunching on the gravel. The monks were having their meals and without disturbing them, we went for a look see. There were many caves with drip ledges. The outer walls have now been built using bricks and cement making them protect from insects and other animals for the monks.

After a brief tour, we got back to the alms hall where the monks were doing the post-meal rituals. There was a tiny deer named “Bindu”. It had been wounded on the thigh and now receiving treatments from these monks. The chief monk was very kind and understandably even Bindu felt it as it kept running towards him whenever a stranger or some fearful noise was heard. After a short stay, we returned to the tuk-tuk and were on our way to the Galapitagala Junction. I then bid farewell to my hosts and got into a bus to Habarana from where I took a very fast bus to Colombo.

Our last destination

Finally the mist drifted off. Can see some Elephant poo on the road

Here’s the Andiya Kanda

Entering the Monastery

Do read this. (Click image to enlarge)

Water beginning to find new paths

Through the dense forest

The main alms hall

Going uphill

The Bo Tree is around the corner

Here it is

One of the modified caves. Note the drip-ledges

A close up of a drip-ledge

Choco and Creamy Mushroom

Backwards

Another similar cave

It’s believed the whole of Ritigala housed some 500+ Arhath Bhikkus during Aritta Thero’s era

Another drip-ledge but very special

Coz of these writings

Few more

Here’s Bindu

Can’t stand properly due to the injury

Seeking protection under the Saffron Robe

Compassion

Knows no harm will come to him

Here’s the wound being treated by the monks

Time to go

The stupidity of the officials

Check the couple of Panos I took:

Well, folks, that’s the fairy tale of this unbelievably beautiful and tranquil place. You’re bound to be awed by its history and the majestic craftsmanship of our ancestors.

Do pay a visit if you already haven’t done so. This is Sri signing off for now and hoping to see you once again with another journey…

Until then, be safe and keep travelling.

Adiós!

Sri…